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JohnPeller
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« on: August 27, 2010, 02:16:39 PM » |
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I'd appreciate help identifying this Orrefors bowl. It's 8 1/4" wide and 5" tall. It's in perfect condition, except that the bottom is badly scratched so I can't read the markings. All I can read is "orrefors" and maybe (maybe!) 1?6/1?1, but I'm not even to sure about any of that. It's from my parents, possibly from the 1970s or 1980s (maybe earlier). Thanks for your help! John Peller, Chicago IL USA http://picasaweb.google.com/jpeller72/OrreforsBowl?authkey=Gv1sRgCJm29-DSloijlQE#(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RHaVEKPNzfI/THfF0vPcHJI/AAAAAAAAAeE/MMi6p2iKGpM/s128/IMG_0003.JPG) |
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chopin-liszt
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« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2010, 02:45:26 PM » |
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Hi and welcome to the gmb. A photograph of the base and markings would help a great deal. The best way to try to capture markings is to dust them with talcum powder, then rub your finger lightly over them - the talc will stay in the grooves. Take the picture on the closest close-up setting your camera will do, against a dark background. I'm sure your mystery will be solved.  |
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Cheers, Sue (M)
"To neglect the weak would be an overwhelming present evil. Human sympathy is the noblest part of our nature." Charles Darwin.
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JohnPeller
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« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2010, 04:22:47 PM » |
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wayan
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« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2010, 06:25:38 PM » |
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I cannot help with the ID but thanks to Sue for the tip re photographing or indeed reading signatures.
I too am struggling with an Orrefors piece which now reads PU 2597 with the aid of talc.
Many thanks
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ahremck
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« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2010, 03:07:22 AM » |
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Maybe a shallower angle with reflected base will give a clearer result. When the photo is as straight on as yours you get colours and refraction to confuse.
It also may help if you put the weight onto a dark background and take the signature normally - it will show up white compared to the darker background.
Finally a method I use if the base is mnote smooth is to light rub a pencill over the marks. The signature should show up lighter than the surrounding base
I have attached three signatures from Australian paperweights -
Chris Pantano - impossible to photograph straight on due to the included dichroic material
Chris Pantano - darker background
Mat Quicke - showing how the pencil works
Ross
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I bamle all snileplg eorrrs on the Cpomuter Kyes. They confuse my fingers !!!
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ahremck
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« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2010, 03:10:21 AM » |
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Oops! forgot TAB does not work normally here are the three photos I intended to attach>
Ross
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I bamle all snileplg eorrrs on the Cpomuter Kyes. They confuse my fingers !!!
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Daniel S
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« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2010, 09:28:54 PM » |
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Orrefors P xxxxxx
Palmqvist
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ahremck
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« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2010, 12:15:32 AM » |
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Looking at your talcum powder pictures I am uncertain whether it is a P = Sven Palmquist or an A = Olle Alberius. Perhaps you can decide better than we can.
Ross
PS. By the way Wayan the PU **** = Sven (P)almquist[the designer] + (U)ncut, smooth glass - followed by the design number.
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I bamle all snileplg eorrrs on the Cpomuter Kyes. They confuse my fingers !!!
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wayan
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« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2010, 04:35:38 PM » |
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Thanks Ross for the additional info - does the number help to date a piece or is it a design number?
If a design number, is there info as to how long designs were in production?
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ahremck
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« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2010, 12:46:23 AM » |
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Wayan as far as I know it is purely a design number - but somewhere that number was allocated and a reference presumably kept as to when that occurred. There are members of the GMB who are able to give dates - I, personally, have yet to buy a reference or come across a site that allows me that information. I would try sending an email direct to Orrefors - who knows they may be able to tell you. If you do find a way to date Orrefors I would appreciate you passing it on.
Ross
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I bamle all snileplg eorrrs on the Cpomuter Kyes. They confuse my fingers !!!
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ahremck
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« Reply #11 on: August 30, 2010, 01:44:41 AM » |
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Using your talc photos I would have a punt at 4046/121 for the numbers.
Ross
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I bamle all snileplg eorrrs on the Cpomuter Kyes. They confuse my fingers !!!
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Daniel S
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« Reply #12 on: August 30, 2010, 07:45:10 AM » |
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My friends I have already written Palmqvist. No further investigations are needed.
The product number always consists of two parts xxxxx / xxxx , first part is the model/design number, second part indicates what it is. Ie a bowl, vase, or so....
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chopin-liszt
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« Reply #13 on: August 30, 2010, 08:48:07 AM » |
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Ross, there's a comprehensive list of what the marks are in Ivo Haanstra's (Ivo here  ) wonderful little book, "Glass Fact File a-z". A fabulous little book, crammed with info., no self-respecting glass collector should be without. ISBN 1-84000-429-0 |
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Cheers, Sue (M)
"To neglect the weak would be an overwhelming present evil. Human sympathy is the noblest part of our nature." Charles Darwin.
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JohnPeller
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« Reply #14 on: August 30, 2010, 12:23:25 PM » |
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Thank you all so much for your help! I look forward to hearing what the master himself has to say!
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