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Glass Identification - Post here for all ID requests => Glass => Topic started by: RoynMargaret on August 04, 2006, 01:44:55 PM

Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: RoynMargaret on August 04, 2006, 01:44:55 PM
Hi all

I have just started a new line of research into costume jewellery that contains glass, paste, diamante and marcasite "stones"

So far I have found just a few very basic articles and references to the specifics of glass - lost among innumerable references to items for sale.

I already know enough about the foil-backed Georgian and early Victorian jewellery for my purposes. I do know about the Ysart/Caithness canes and the current Murano glass jewellery, but want to know more about "fake" gemstones, especially 1890 - 1990. How and where they are/were made, manufacturers, dates, styles, anything in fact that will help my knowledge and understanding. What makes it good, bad, collectable, valuable, etc?

Can anyone point me in the right direction please - perhaps even some designer's names to chase up on eBay?

Here's a f'rinstance, probably from the 60s/70s, clip fixing

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y274/CornucopiaA_C/IMG_0046.jpg

and, stylistically different but from the same period, again with brass clip fixing, and a fantastic tortoisehell glass.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y274/CornucopiaA_C/IMG_0012-1.jpg
Thank you

Roy
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Frank on August 04, 2006, 02:46:13 PM
A major centre for a long time has been Czechoslovakia. Check on eBay for vintage buttons and beads and you will find some vintage ones on cards with the trade names and sometimes manufacturer.

Costume jewellery histories would be another source of information.

The other big area of beads is those made for trading, again lots or resources on the web... look for money histories.

Let us know what you find, my knowledge in this area is only peripheral.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Pip on August 04, 2006, 03:50:05 PM
Hi RoynMargaret (I have an Uncle Roy and Aunty Margaret btw!) anyway, in answer to your question - a couple of good names to look for (just off the top of my head) with regards to vintage costume jewellery is Trifari and, in particular, their Jelly Belly designs - the jelly belly being a large round piece of coloured glass usually representing the body of an animal or insect on a brooch.  Most Trifari is pretty collectable but the jelly bellies in particular and also Miriam Haskell (think I've spelt that right).  I researched vintage costume jewellery in some depth a few years ago when I was getting a collection of vintage butterfly brooches together for my daughter (who at the time was a baby) - I amassed some lovely items for her but since I've started dealing in vintage/retro glass and ceramics I seem to have completely forgotten everything I learned about costume jewellery! LOL (probably my age!).  I've got a folder full of notes and books somewhere I'll take a look at later and post some more designers & manufacturer's names on here.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: RoynMargaret on August 04, 2006, 03:51:12 PM
This is superficial but it's a start

http://ezinearticles.com/?The-History-of-Costume-Jewelry&id=67972
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: RoynMargaret on August 04, 2006, 03:54:30 PM
This one's much better. I will be there for some time :)

http://www.illusionjewels.com/costumejewelrymarks.html
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: chopin-liszt on August 04, 2006, 04:05:45 PM
:D :D :D

Miracle is another name to conjure with, apparently. I don't think it's as good as Trifari, though. Dior did costume jewellery, but I think the bottom line in costume stuff is having a name on it at all.

I've got a beautiful Trifari butterfly, but the stones on it are clear cut glass, even the marcasite-sized ones.

Judith Miller has produced a book on costume jewellery, just recently. I believe it is somehing that is on the "up", as far as collectability is concerned.

I'm particularly fond of turn of the last century foil beads, my favourites being Venetian fire opal. These are hand made beads, the body is a random mix of amber, opalescent and clear glass, containing crinkled gold foil. I don't know much about them though. There are "Bohemian" foil beads as well.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: RoynMargaret on August 04, 2006, 04:13:24 PM
Quote
the stones on it are clear cut glass, even the marcasite-sized ones.


I did not know marcasite referred to size, I thought it a particular type of glass gemstone, usually mounted in silver.

Can you please elaborate on size?
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Pat on August 04, 2006, 04:23:53 PM
I think Sue meant the small glass stones about the same size as marcasite stones.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: chopin-liszt on August 04, 2006, 04:29:02 PM
:D :oops: :D

Yes, I did, sorry for confusing. The body and the tips of the wings are pave-set little glass stones of the same size as the usual size of the pave-set marcasites. There are also big glass stones on the gold-coloured textured wings.
I don't think I've ever seen big marcasites :?
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Lustrousstone on August 04, 2006, 05:14:12 PM
I've got my dictionary out again - did I hear a groan

Marcasite is 1. a metallic pale yellow mineral consisting of iron pyrites in a crystalline form used for jewellery
2. a cut and polished form of steel or any white metal used for making jewellery

So no glass there!
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Frank on August 04, 2006, 05:23:59 PM
Most of the Art Deco Marcasite is set in steel.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: josordoni on August 04, 2006, 06:06:16 PM
If you want modern/retro then of course vintage Butler and Wilson is a name to conjure with.  

This site seems to have a load of costume jewellry for you to wonder at:

http://www.treasurebox.co.uk/designer_jewellery_gallery/butler_and_wilson_biography.htm
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: josordoni on August 04, 2006, 06:08:04 PM
Oh sorry, I was rushing, just looked at that link again, and it is all modern new stuff.   :oops:
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Frank on August 04, 2006, 06:43:33 PM
An important producer of crystals for jewellery were of course Swarovski, founded by Daniel Swarovski in Wattens, Austria in 1895. They were using electricity from the beginning for cutting, probably a first.

Of course the modern production is a little... err... tacky 8)
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Tigerchips on August 04, 2006, 08:35:14 PM
As mentioned earlier, there is a lot of costume jewellery in some Judith Miller's books, I have Judith Miller's "Collector's Guides: Costume Jewellery" (2003).

Which has in it:
Chanel
Christian Dior
Coppola e Toppo
Coro and Corocraft
Fahrner
Hattie Carnegie
Hobe
Joseff of Hollywood
Kenneth J Lane
Lea Stein
Lisner
Maison Gripoix
Marcel Boucher
Mazer Brothers
Miriam Haskell
Schiaparelli
Stanly Hagler
Trifari
Vendome
Weiss
Amongst others

Their are also sections on:
Austrian Fruits
Bakelite
Christmas tree pins
Coro duettes
Plastic Jewellery
Scottish agate

There is a Czech section but it's only on one page.  :(

The book is just how I like it, big close up pictures, a little detail of the companies but not enough to boar me half to death.

I have a few pieces of Miracle, I'm not sure if they have glass or minerals in them (perhaps both).
http://glassgallery.yobunny.org.uk/albums/userpics/10011/Picture_1417.jpg

Also, I have a no thrills Trifari Broach and a Coro necklace - which I think has glass stones in it.
http://glassgallery.yobunny.org.uk/albums/userpics/10011/Picture_1420.jpg
I could be wrong but I don't think there is much market for these as they are not intricate enough.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Pip on August 04, 2006, 08:44:20 PM
I'm glad you mentioned Lea Stein, Tiger - I have a couple of Lea Stein brooches - she produced brooches using cellulose - sort of layered them up with interesting glittery layers in between the cellulose and melted them.  I bought two quite rare early butterfly brooches of hers for £15 each - much to hubby's derision - he was convinced they were modern plastic rubbish.  He had to eat his words though when we saw some on a TV programme valued at £50 each.  I couldn't resist doing that 'see!!!!' thing you do to someone when they've been proved wrong.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Sklounion on August 05, 2006, 02:55:35 AM
Hi,
The major centre for costume jewellery in Czechoslovakia has always been Jablonec nad Nisou (Gablonz). The truly excellent museum there is well worth a visit.
regards,
Marcus
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Connie on August 05, 2006, 10:07:08 AM
Quote from: "Frank"
An important producer of crystals for jewellery were of course Swarovski, founded by Daniel Swarovski in Wattens, Austria in 1895. They were using electricity from the beginning for cutting, probably a first.

Of course the modern production is a little... err... tacky 8)



Swarovski is still the leading producer of quality rhinestones.  IMHO they can't be beat for clarity and sparkle.

The giftware line is only a small fraction of their business.

I have quite a bit of custome jewelry on my website. My favorite is Julianna but I can't keep it in my shop.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: heartofglass on August 05, 2006, 02:01:27 PM
2 excellent books on glass costume jewellery/beads are "Glass in Jewellery" & "Baubles,Buttons,& Beads" by Sybille Jargsdorf, a German writer/researcher.
Lots of info on the beadmakers of Bohemia & Germany,& also Venice.
Most of the beads & other components(metal fittings) used in costume jewellery in 19th-20th C. came from Bohemia.
These weren't usually marked with makers names, however designer or importers names were often added, even if they had little or no input in making the items.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: RoynMargaret on August 08, 2006, 11:35:19 PM
Great start. Thanks to all who have replied. I have enough to keep me going for some time  :D
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Frank on August 16, 2006, 08:22:58 PM
Lois Sherr Dubin. A History of Beads. New York. Abrams, Inc., 1987.

Kathlyn Moss and Alice Scherer. The New Beadwork. New York. Abrams, Inc., 1992.

Glass in Jewelry: Hidden Artistry in Glass. Schiffer, 1991.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: RoynMargaret on September 17, 2006, 01:37:12 PM
There has been so much to take in and so much great information and links offered that this thread is worth a bump.

I have continued my interest, although there is much else to absorb me, but I am "getting my eye in" and sold a couple of inexpensive items on eBay. There is tremendous competition in the jewellery market, much of it new, of course.

One thing I found was that the US term rhinestone (as in "Rhinestone Cowboy", of course) is probably more common and recognisable than diamante or paste. I have not yet pinned down accurate definitions, or indeed understood the differences.

I seriously believe I can identify a niche market for vintage jewellery specifically containing glass, as opposed to precious metal or gemstones. Following specific designers may be much more difficult.

As a measure of my commitment I have invested £75 in an ultrasonic cleaner and am practising my close-up photography :)

Thanks for your continuing interest and information.
Title: paste clips are amazing
Post by: wrightoutlook on September 17, 2006, 02:01:52 PM
I knew a high-spirited elderly woman in Toronto who had a collection of more than 700 paste clips and related objects; many of them truly spectacular works of art. In addition to clips, she had pinbacks and shoe buckles. Astonishing. She kept them in black velvet-lined boxes with glass tops. She was originally from Portsmouth, England and worked in London for a while before she and her mother and sister moved to Canada in the 1950s.

Her collection was truly amazing. At times it was staggering to take it all in. Tragically she died in a motor accident and didn't leave a will. Her evil nephew dumped the paste clip collection to a dealer for a quick buck.

To this day, I still believe the collection belonged in a museum. It was that brilliant and wonderfully eclectic with designs of incredible complexity. She cleaned them regularly, replaced missing nuggets of rhinestone - which she called paste bits - and adored her purchases.

She loved to hunt for them. Even into her seventies, she would go to flea markets and garage sales looking for her paste clips. She would visit us here in the States and eagerly agree to spend a quiet Sunday at a flea market or antique show. I loved learning about them from her. Paste clips were something I never knew about until she entered my life. They are something to see. Now they always catch my eye.
Title: Jewellery: Glass, paste, diamante, marcasite
Post by: Carolyn Preston on September 17, 2006, 11:23:11 PM
Roy/Margaret, When you get to feeling expert on the subject, I have a (I think) marquesite necklace I'd love to get more information on. Gift from my grandmother (she had a habit of buying interesting bits from charity shops and then giving them as gifts.)  :D

Carolyn