Topic: Jobling Bird And Corn Large Pink Glass Lamp Base

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Hi there,

I am in possession of a large glass lamp base made by Jobling in the Bird and Corn pattern in the pink colourway.

It has what I believe it's ORIGINAL fitting for the top.  I would like to confirm with anybody who has one of the lamps (not juse the vase/base) what the fittings on the top should look like.  I would assume that they had a double light fitting, one ontop and one on the base, however my one only has one for the top. 

If anybody has some photographs they wish to share that they believe is the original light fitting top then please could you share for me?  As a purist I would like to know if the light were inside as well as the top and am perhaps thinking of altering it before I sell it in order for it to be true to it's original deisgn.

The fitting on the top at present is brass Mem Made In England fitting screwed into a silver metal circular disc with a circular hole within that in order for the power supply to be fed inside.

Many thanks for any help you could provide.

[Paul S.]

It may or may not help to see this particular piece      https://www.glassmessages.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=68944.0;attach=230303;image    sorry, I can't now seem to get the thing back upright.

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Hi there!

Thank you for the link to the images.  I had found that information previously, also a few other mentions on the Bird and Corn Vase/Lamp base on the glass message board.  I can only find one image with BlackPoppy of the whole lamp with a shade.  I am looking for the actual fitting across the top, that holds the bulb - please see the photographs.  I would like to see if somebody has the same, if so, do they have a fitting 'underneath' for a bulb that would sit opposite the top one enabling the lamp base to be illuminated?

Many thanks again.

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Here are some more pics of the existing fitting for the light.

[Mosquito]

The chrome cap looks to be original, but the bulb holder maybe not. These were originally Bakelite, though it’s not beyond the realms of possibility that brass was used later. Anyway, c.1937 these should be double fittings with illumination for the base. If you’re using the lamp now I’d suggest adding an earth connection to the metalwork for safety (otherwise with the brass fitting the whole cap could become live if a wire detached itself from the bulb socket).

If the threaded tube is long enough, you may also be able to add a bulb holder on the underside to light the interior as per the catalogue. If lighting the interior, I recommend the use of LED bulbs as they run fairly cool and will minimise the risk of cracking due to heat stress.

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Steven, thank you so much for your valued information regarding the light fitting.

I have found a website selling bakelite fittings and will endeavour to see what can be done.  It's a shame nobody has a photograph of the original light fitting but I am posting here a photograph of what is believed to be the original top section - reference for others who may be trying to repair their lamp.

The top is 10.5cm diameter, 9mm depth.  The small circular hole for the cable is 13mm diameter and approximately 14mm distance from outer edge, 19mm from inner thread hole.

The thread in these photographs protudes exactly 7mm through the top and 7mm from underside, 1cm diameter.

I hope others might find this of use.

If anybody does have a photograph of the original or some text explaining how the light fitting was originally I would really be grateful.

Thank you again Steve.  You have been so helpful. 

[Mosquito]

I’ll share a photo of mine later when I get chance. The cap and screws look identical to yours. Mine has two bulb holders, both in brown Bakelite, but they are slightly different from each other so I suspect one at least isn’t original. I think the internal holder may be original, but there’s no easy way to tell. It’s also possible that different fittings were used during production depending on what the suppliers had available.

Mine was wired simply with jumper wires linking the two sockets so the bulbs are effectively in parallel. The top socket isn’t switched so both bulbs light when the inline switch is turned on. Although at least some of the hardware on mine looks original, the wiring certainly wasn’t so this may not have been the original setup. Some lamps of this era with interior illumination have a more complex setup allowing the two bulbs to be controlled independently, though there doesn’t seem to be much room for this. Had the top socket needed replacing I’d have used a switched one and fed it with jumpers from the lower holder: that way you could at least have the interior bulb on with the exterior off.

For safety I added a ring with an earthing point around the threaded tube in the interior: it’s pressed tight against the metal cap by the lower bulb holder. I also added an inline strain relief so that pulling on the cord won’t affect the electrical connections inside.

[Mosquito]

Taken mine apart and got some quick photos. Note that this cap is currently in use on a B2 Fish base, though it originally came with a B3 vase (The B2 base is easier to accommodate on the nightstand: this is our bedside lamp and sees regular use. The B3 vase now is on display in the bathroom).

A few things to note. I am now prestty sure that the internal holder at least is original as it is not a standard bulbholder. It has a longer section at the base and has holes in the side for the flex to enter. The power comes in here then jumper wires run up inside the threaded tube to the upper socket. This also explains why the upper and lower sockets are of different type. 

There's also a ring which acts as a grommet around the cable entry hole. Can't tell what material but may be bakelite too. It's held in place with a nut underneath.

Not much else interesting, though you can see the earth ring and stran relief that I added. i got these, the fabric covered flex and a new inline switch from an online lighting supplier. Don't remember the details sadly, but I find them I'll share them here.

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Steven!  You are amazing!  Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to write all the information and take photographs for me!

Thank you so much!

I have been thinking about doing this for a while and now I have an image to go by I can start buying the parts for refurbishing the lamp base into a good working example and feel confident enough to make the right choice.  I wanted to be able to turn the light on inside the glass independant of the top light but was unsure if this were the case at all originally.  This is just perfect!  The LED - I wouldn't have given a thought until you said about the heat generation from the bulb. 

Not sure if I will be able to find a little circular bakelite grommet fitting where the cable goes through but you never know.

Now all I have to choose is the correct colour for the cable.    White would be too stark, black harsh, gold would be the perfect choice as you have with amber glass but this pink shade of glass has me a little flumoxed.  Choices, choices! 

Steve you couldn't comprehend how important it is for me to get this right and you have most certainly helped me make the decision to make it a working lamp.  I very nearly didn't, Glass Message Board was my only hope.  Thank you again so much!  I might be confident in a few weeks once complete to post a pic here and list where the parts were purchased to help anybody else thinking of doing the same thing.  I really think it will be worth the effort. 

You have made me a happy bunny today!  Cheers! 

[Mosquito]

Glad to be of help. Regarding the grommet, you should be able to find something that will work. If your lighting parts supplier doesn’t have anything appropriate, I’d go to an automotive parts place and get a black rubber cable grommet. These come in various sizes and are used for protecting wires where they go through the bulkhead so should be fine here. In black they won’t look too different to the original ring.

For the cable, maybe a silver fabric covered flex? Depends perhaps as well on the shade. Silver would add some bling but hopefully be neutral enough to go well with different colours here.