Topic: Photographing clear and translucent glass on a light table

[Anne]

Anne they work really well too.  I use a sheet of opaque glass stood on four clear glass tot glasses, with a battery operated multi-LED light underneath it at the back, and a sheet of plain white hardboard (rescued backing board from a former bookshelf) stood behind the shelf as the backdrop with a couple of sheets of matt black card stood at either side out of camera view, to give shadows to make cutting or pattern show up clearly... here's some examples...

[Anne Tique]

That's stunning too! I quite like it that on both yours and Dirks' pictures the items don't reflect any direct light from the lamps, like on mine.
It looks very impressive and professional.

[dirk.]

Wow, good result everyone! 

[Paul S.]

in practice 3mm acrylic requires more heat than I imagined in order to make the stuff bend through 90 degrees  -  you can use a wire, but this requires a more complex set up than a simple gun.
The size I chose was one metre square - probably too big  -  as the heat gun reaches the end of 100 cm. the first bit I suspect has lost too much heat before the nozzle returns.
Anyway, mine requires some refinement yet, and I suspect experimenting with the position of the light source might help to improve the brightness where it's wanted.     I've used a modern Energy Saving Halogen bulb rated at 105W, which I was told is the equivalent of the old incandescnent 150W - but not so sure that in practice the light is as bright.            However, it's a vast improvement on my old set up, and a big thanks Dirk for all his help and suggestions.

[dirk.]

Very good results, Paul! IsnŽt it amazing how much details show up on cut glass?
YouŽll enjoy trying different light settings with your new equipment IŽm sure. 

[Paul S.]

hi Dirk  -  yes, I really can't stop playing with it

One important aspect of the light source is that when using a standard incandescent bulb (or even a low energy bulb), the resulting light has a tendency to cast a yellowy/brown glow, whereas using a strip fluorescent type of lighting gives a good white light, and seems to improve the clarity.

[Anne]

Cool white and daylight LEDs give a very clean white light too Paul, as do cold cathode tubes (as used in computer monitors, fish tanks etc). The warm white LEDs tend towards that yellowy tungsten light effect.  There's a handy guide to light temperatures here: https://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/article/colour-temperature

[dirk.]

Thanks both! My old camera used to have a good function, which helped to easily adjust the light setting.
Unfortunately the new one doesnŽt, so I shall try a different light. :thup:

[oldglassman]

HI ,
           For a long time now I have been using spiral daylight bulbs,they are recommended for photography and also for sad syndrome,so they keep you happy while you work lol

cheers

peter

[Paul S.]

thanks for the link re light colours Anne, very useful  -  I've been using two angle poise lamps with circular fluorescent tubes - one behind the acrylic and the other underneath.                One was daylight and a good white but the other was casting a less than white look, so have replaced with a 'cool white' LED which according to your list should improve the 'whiteness' - will see how I get on.

Like all obsessive collectors, I get sad syndrome if I don't find anything good for a week